On February 12, 1884 a 25 year old Theodore Roosevelt became a father. Two days later, his wife died. Hours later, his mother died. Devastated, Teddy soon set off for North Dakota. One of his main goals was to hunt bison, but he became intrigued with the cattle industry and soon bought a ranch and hired his hunting guides to run it.
My desire to go to North Dakota was much different. I certainly hadn’t suffered as much tragedy as Roosevelt, but I too needed to change my routine. I wanted a trip that was completely out of the ordinary, that would let me be outside as much as possible, would provide many opportunities to explore, and contained lots of space to think. Oh, and visit my 49th state and as many National Parks I could fit into a week. And I, like Roosevelt, found comfort in living what he called, “The Strenuous Life.”
Theodore Roosevelt National Park is divided into three units in western North Dakota: North Unit, South Unit, and Elkhorn Ranch. Elkhorn Ranch is the site of Roosevelt’s cattle ranch. Only some foundation stones remain and this area as been kept as undeveloped as possible to allow it to remain how Roosevelt would have experienced it. Unfortunately that means there is no easy way to get there. The only road in is a rutted, dirt road. I skipped it as I had lots to explore in the other two units.
The North Unit is in the middle of oil country. I drove for miles through field after field and suddenly there was a pumpjack. Or a fenced in area with a much more elaborate oil drilling facility. And small housing/trailer developments are springing up throughout the region. But in the middle of this bustling economy is an oasis of over 24,000 acres.
Theodore Roosevelt National Park North Unit
I passed through the entrance gate, showed my annual pass, and on my left was a large herd of bison. Sadly, I was paranoid about not getting a campsite in the park’s campground (they don’t take reservations), so I sped past. It was early afternoon and I found the campground less than 25% full. I got a great, level, pull through spot with a path that lead down to the Missouri River. I filled out the registration envelope and learned a valuable lesson: Have exact change when registering for a campsite on site. Enjoy the donation Park Service, you’re worth it.
With my accommodations for the night secure, I set off on the 14 mile scenic drive. Interesting landscapes and geological formations were all around me. As I neared the end of the drive, I rounded a bend and found another group of bison. It was a hot day and they were resting and trying to stay cool.
Scenic Drive
The scenic drove ends at the Oxbow Scenic Overlook. With so many trees along the river, the oxbow is hard to see, but it’s there.
It was just past this point where Teddy Roosevelt caught two thieves who stole his riverboat. He marched them across 60 miles to Dickinson where they stood trial. Go Teddy!
On a sunset walk, I passed several cannonball concretions. These round boulders formed inside of other, softer rocks. The softer, outer shell eroded away and these concretions mark their spot to this day.
Caprock Coulee Trail
The following morning, I took another lap on the scenic drive and decided to hike the Caprock Coulee trail. I saw pictures of the caprocks in National Geographic’s Guide to the National Parks and knew I had to see these mushroom shaped formations. I didn’t care that it would be a four mile walk in the wilderness, I wanted to see them. So off I went.
Several miles and interesting formations later, I reached the place of the caprocks. But, they weren’t there. They’ve apparently all fallen down. Thankfully, the scenery of the trail was so beautiful that I wasn’t too mad. But disappointed nonetheless.
The trail eventually winds up the hill, crosses the scenic drive and past the Riverbend Overlook. This was one of my favorite spots in the park, and while pausing here along my hike I saw a bison crossing the river far below. Unfortunately, I wasn’t able to change lenses in time to get the photo I wanted, but it was a magical moment. You’ll just have to take my word for it.
I continued along the trail and found some petrified wood.
After my hike, I was back in the Jeep and driving to the South Unit.
But not before a stop to visit with the bison herd inside the entrance gate.
Go. Live.
